Designer Pieter Mulier showcased his fourth collection for the fashion brand Alaïa in a personal and intimate setting at his Antwerp apartment. The show was held in his triplex with a stunning view of the city and river below, reflecting Mulier’s wish to “share something of who I am” and bring the Alaïa culture into his own space. This approach was inspired by the late Azzedine Alaïa, who was known for working, showing, and entertaining in his own house and only collaborating with people he liked. Mulier wanted to create an intimate and personal experience, rather than a distant and glamorous show.
The designer discussed how the environment and light of Antwerp affected his design vision, noting that he always starts working on a collection in the kitchen and looks up to the cathedral for inspiration. This led to a pursuit of roundedness and sculpting in the designs, playing with the extremes of masculine and feminine. Mulier’s Belgian identity was also apparent in the minimal yet sensual tailoring, with drapes in circles and a white dress with a scarf over the head reminiscent of North African hoods, a nod to Azzedine. The designer’s style was evident in the black cotton drapes for evening wear, the bomber-hoodie and army-surplus parka, and the use of faded denim instead of the classic rigid version.
Mulier’s gradual stamp on the brand was evident in his logical and emotional approach, with modern ball skirts worn over bodystocking turtlenecks as an experimental move forward. The designer is careful not to rush but is making sure to put his own touch on the brand while still respecting the regulations set by the keepers of the Azzedine Alaïa flame.