Antwerp-based fashion house Ann Demeulemeester is entering its third season under the ownership of Italian retailer Antonioli, with a dark but very elegant collection, focusing on the key piece: the coat, which was here declined in multiple volumes, shapes and materials.
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Held at the Cordeliers Convent, prized for its gothic architecture, the Fall/Winter 2022 collection, designed by an in-house team, showcased clean, timeless lines while playing on masculine tailoring. In felt, thick woolen sheet, crumpled leather or worsted wool, the coat covered and protected the body, often touching the ground. It came in straight or double-breasted coats, sometimes belted at the waist and embellished with removable white collars and ribbons that twirl at the pace of the models.
The other strong point of the collection was the suit revisited in a casual spirit, always equipped with detachable white collar that added a rakish and romantic touch to the pieces.
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- Kris Grikaite by Markn for WSJ. Magazine December 2022/January 2023