The Ann Demeulemeester brand is in a transition period, after creative director Sébastien Meunier exited his post last year and the brand was acquired by the Italian retailer Claudio Antonioli, co-founder of the New Guards Group, who helped shepherd Off-White, County of Milan and Ambush to global success.
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Although the designer is no longer leading the brand’s creative direction, Ann Demeulemeester’s influence remains undeniably omnipresent in this collection designed by an in-house team.
Silhouettes were loose and relaxed. Lengths were exaggerated, the movements of which were strongly emphasized by long black ribbons, chaotically tied on the clothes, in accordance with Demeulemeester’s handwriting painted in tiny letters on some models’ faces or printed on several pieces.
Bowler hats, worn by almost every model, were also oversized in a Pharrell Williams style while jackets, with dropped shoulders, came tailored and sleek or reconstructed, adding a cozy and comfort feel to the collection.
The collection, entirely in black and white, was a true tribute to the intimate genesis of Ann Demeulemeester.
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