Hello, nostalgia, my old friend !For Balenciaga’s Pre-Fall 2022 collection, Demna Gvasalia, now known as just Demna, is rewinding the clock to the mid-to-late ’90. It was the time he still lived in Soviet-era Georgia, the days of the pre-internet, of VHS movies, of illegal warehouse raves, of post-grunge where black was the only color permitted, of deconstruction and the minimalist.
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With mostly black looks, Demna’s collection, titled “The Lost Tape”, plunged us into what a Balenciaga show might have looked like back in the day if done by Demna.
“The ’90s are the decade in which I realized I loved fashion”, he declared to Vogue. “People have forgotten that era because you can’t really search it. Fashion was dirtier, nastier, and fun then, not filtered and behaved and polished and proper and seen on every single platform as it is now”.
Teased through a digital lookbook and a video directed by Harmony Korine, cult director of ”Gummo” (1997) and ”Spring Breakers” (2012), the line stayed true to the house’s aesthetic with its dark palette. Thus, there were bell-shaped down jackets, loose pants, very structured jackets, oversized tracksuits and very long and wide coats in the designer’s “favorite color”: black. Elsewhere, a few looks in vibrant and neon hues while denim pieces also took the spotlight, with for example a slouchy light wash denim jacket and dark blue flared jeans.
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