Dior’s latest collection, designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri, pays homage to the post-war era in Paris and the women who shaped it.
The Fall/Winter 2023 collection was inspired by three heroines of the time: Catherine Dior, the designer’s sister who was a French Resistance fighter during WWII; Édith Piaf, the legendary singer; and Juliette Gréco, another famous singer. Rather than simply recreating archival designs, Chiuri sought to capture the spirit and essence of these women in her collection.
With 96 looks in total, the collection features classic Dior silhouettes such as bustier dresses and razor-pleated skirts, but with a modern twist. Crumpled surface effects, fabrics incorporating stainless steel thread, and unbuttoned hourglass jackets give the collection a subversive and rebellious feel. Leather gloves and cat-eye sunglasses add a touch of edginess, while crumpled gingham skirts and sheer blouses evoke the spirit of the time.
The collection also incorporates elements borrowed from the Dior archive, including a chiné fabric used for floral patterns and sequins that add a touch of glamour to the chic black evening dresses. The show was held in a venue decorated with a monumental textile sculpture by artist Joana Vasconcelos, adding to the overall ambiance of the show.
Chiuri shared that she was a little nervous presenting the collection to her new boss, Delphine Arnault, who recently took over as chairman and CEO of Christian Dior Couture. However, she expressed her hope that her interpretation of the spirit of Paris and the heritage of the house would not be seen as too stereotypical.