Two days after his friend and mentee Virgil Abloh showed his first runway at Louis Vuitton, Kim Jones looked into the Dior archives as the inspiration for his debut collection for Dior Homme.
Set up in the barracks of the Republican Guard cavalry regiment, the collection was a “a dual tribute – to the reality of Dior, and the fantasy”, said the show notes.
For the clothing, Jones redefined the careful elegance that’s always been attached to the Dior Homme name. It’s not a far departure from what he’s done in the past but Jones really up the tailoring for Dior, a house frequently known for it’s sharp, flawless suits. Pastel colors, colorful flower patterns, loose-slouch cuts really defined the collection. Also, Jones didn’t stray too far from his signature sportswear-infused aesthetic which can be seen on the shorts, tanks, outerwear and on t-shirt in a dévoré Dior Oblique logo pattern worn baggy skater shorts.
Most strikingly, Jones found myriad ways to turn the house codes into covetable merch for the millennials: male versions of its best-selling Saddle bag, tiny John Galliano for Dio-era saddlebags, stylized CD belt buckle created by Matthew Williams, the designer behind the rising label Alyx, CD-logo stud earrings by Yoon Ahn, who recently joined the Dior team, based on a modernist logo used by Dior’s family in the Twenties.
Referencing the first M Dior boutique, Toile de Jouy prints bring a charming nostalgia to coats and other tailored separates.