For the first big rendezvous of Paris Fashion Week in real life, Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Dior women’s wear designer, transformed a tent in the Tuileries gardens into a ‘60s-era nightclub with a live band playing Italian disco music.
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The scenography – a multilevel circular stage where models stood until it was their turn to walk – and backdrop around the conceptual board game-inspired pop art were designed by the Italian artist Anna Paparatti, now 85, based on her 1964 painting “The Game of Nonsense”.
For Spring/Summer 2022, Chiuri transported us to the early 1960s – specifically Marc Bohan’s 1961 “Slim-Look” collection made for slim and young body types. “He broke with the past and introduced Dior to the prêt-à-porter world”, said Chiuri. “I think this part of the history of Dior is very close to my taste, my spirit”.
The graphic, color-blocked collection, made dynamic through a palette of rich pigments – tangerine, green, pink, red, cyan – with a simple black and white base, was playful and fun, yet serious, ideal for post-pandemic life. Think boxer-inspired loungewear to WFH in; color-blocked paneled coats and skirts; satiny boxing robes and shorts in jewel tones; cannage-patterned quilted puffer jackets; Youthquake-worthy suiting in eye-searing shades of orange and yellow; and also several new, relaxed takes on the Bar jacket and brand’s signature Cannage quilting on lightweight coats.
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