Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2023 collection was showcased in Giorgio Armani’s Via Bergognone theater designed by the Japanese Tadao Ando, followed by an opening of the Guy Bourdin: Storyteller exhibit at the Armani/Silos gallery. The legendary designer stated that Bourdin’s vivid color palette influenced the collection, which was predominantly monochrome but featured bursts of saturated hues like magenta, blue, teal, purple, and turquoise.
Armani also revealed that the Elizabethan theatrical costume played a significant role in the collection, as reflected in the looping black ribbon neckpieces and the shimmering blue and green velvet suits. The bowler hats and expressive models added a touch of silent drama to the runway.
The collection was rooted in Armani’s signature soft tailoring, with jackets, coats, and waistcoats in shades of greige worn over shorts, skirts, and pants tucked into boots. A shift into color was indicated by a fractured silk jacquard jacket and skirt in purple-shot menswear patterns. The tuxedo-black daywear section featured sportswear influences, followed by the central color section of velvet suiting, intarsia faux fur herringbone jackets, and shimmering techno-organza pants.
For the evening, Armani showcased paillettes in sequined pants and double-belted halter neck tops, as well as knee-length dresses. A model in a Chaplin-esque hat closed the show with a full-length black dress with twisted shoulder straps, bringing the curtains down on a memorable event.