Strong and often misunderstood women figures from the past inspire Erdem Moralioglu frequently for his collections. This season is no exception to the rule!
For Spring/Summer 2021, Emma Hamilton, the famous lover of Lord Nelson, whose tragic life was portrayed in the Susan Sontag’s historical romance novel, ‘’The Volcano Lover’’, that Moralioglu had devoured during the COVID-19 lockdowns, was served as Moralioglu’s muses.
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Erdem staged its latest runway presentation in the Epping Forest in Essex, England and the collection itself featured all the beloved Erdem signatures: Empire waist gowns adorned with military-style ribbons, embroidered muslin and organza dresses and 18th-century floral jacquard numbers or long, breezy cotton ones with big, and rounded, lantern-like sleeves.
In the show notes, the designer explained the prescience of Sontag’s ‘’The Volcano Lover’’, particularly how the love story at its center unfolds against a smoking Mount Vesuvius in Naples. ‘’As the volcano rumbles and revolution rolls around the continent, everyone understands that the future will be different from the past’’, he wrote. ‘’It is a precipice moment in time, such as we face ourselves today’’.
He also used denim for the first time, too, working it into skirts and jeans printed with delicate wildflowers and worked the formality with a far lighter touch than in past seasons.
- Carey Mulligan covers Madame Figaro January 22nd, 2021 by Esther Haase
- Études Fall/Winter 2021 – Paris Fashion Week Men’s
- ”Daytime Drama” by Alexandre Guirkinger for WSJ. Magazine December 2020/January 2021