Fendi womenswear designer Kim Jones took us to the disco at the opening of Milan Fashion Week on Wednesday, in his first in-person catwalk show since joining the Italian luxury label a year ago.
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For Spring/Summer 2022, he zeroed in on fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez, whose work Lagerfeld long admired and who was also his friend. In 1983, the German designer conscripted Lopez to design an invitation for his namesake brand – and he also once did a logo for Fendi, which Jones reprised as a repeating script on tights and as a jacquard on boldly striped kimono silk.
“While I’ve been looking at Karl’s legacy at the house, I’ve also been looking around him, at his contemporaries – at who he was interested in”, explained Jones. “Lopez was a friend of Karl’s, and has always been someone who inspired me. He was forward thinking; inclusive; looked up to by everyone from Andy Warhol to Steven Meisel and David Hockney. I wanted to introduce him to a new generation”.
Drawn from some of Lopez’s original artwork (with the help and blessing of the Estate and Archive of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos) from the Fendi archives, Jones reimagined Lopez’s work as exaggerated brushstrokes on kaftans and silk shirts, as well as taking his drawings and turning them into intarsia leather thigh-highs and intricately engineered lace.
The Fendi Spring/Summer 2022 collection was also a “modern perspective on disco-age glamour” and spotlighted “the diverse and powerful femininity that underscores the Fendi name”. Fringe dresses that look ready to dance in, plexiglass hoops made to stand-out and tailored suits that could have been worn by Bianca Jagger herself at Studio 54 all hint at a woman that not only knows herself, but isn’t afraid to declare it to the world. With this Spring/Summer collection, Jones highlighted the beauty of female confidence, noting that his vision for Fendi is “multi-generational”.
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