The Fall/Winter 2023 collection from Hermès showcased a departure from the brand’s traditional elegance, introducing a bolder, sexier side to the fashion house.
Creative director Véronique Nichanian presented a range of leather garments, including black calfskin pants, jackets, blousons and a striking cardigan top crafted from lamb shearling. To add a touch of surprise, the collection incorporated elements of role-playing, such as a gray leather overcoat with a fireman’s jacket fastening and a navy pea coat with calfskin patches.
Models walked the runway in triple monk strap boots or sneakers and carried a variety of Hermès’ signature bags in varying sizes and materials, including the HAC (Haut à courroies) bags made from Barénia Faubourg calfskin, crocodile, Fjord cowhide, and Togo calfskin. Nichanian also added a hint of bling to the collection, with models sporting earrings and chains in white gold and diamond, named ‘’Chaos Fancy’’, as well as leather necklaces with shiny metal dice. Daywear pieces included folkish knits with transitioning patterns and short-sleeved versions of the Guernsey sweater. The designer included braided leather inserts in some of the garments as a nod to her love of repairing cherished clothing.
For evening wear, the collection featured black pieces such as fitted knits cut into pale foulards and a regal lambskin topcoat complemented by an ebony foulard cravat. The collection’s silhouette and line kept shifting throughout, from bulky to slim, rigid to soft, and smooth to textured.