While John Galliano, the founder of the brand, who now designs for Maison Margiela, pushed the limits of the concept for Spring/Summer at Margiela with a deep dive into gender fluidity; Bill Gaytten, in charge of the John Galliano label since the exit of Galliano himself, took a more classical route.
Inspired by the ‘’Picnic at Hanging Rock’’, Peter Weir’s 1975 adaptation of Joan Lindsay’s creepy girls-gone-in-the-wild, but Gaytten offered here a modern twist on the St. Valentine’s day explorers. The girls were feminine, romantic and innocent. And the collection has become synonymous with virginal Victorian dresses, straw boater hats and lace-up ankle boots, which formed the basis of the collection, though Gaytten brought a dose of punk attitude into the mix.
As for boys, they wore braces, over-sized tailored pants, circular cut collars and jackets with string vests and long johns. The fabrics were oil-washed, dirt-beaten and worn in appearance, the muted check print was bias cut and the Gazette was disheveled to add to the character from the suede sequins to tough paramilitary boots.