In a pitch-black set by agency OMA in collaboration with artist Shuang Li, inspired by the underwater electronic physical infrastructure that powers our digital world, Miu Miu, the younger, funner counterpart to the Prada brand, places the look of utilitarian ’90s minimalism at the heart of the collection.
Through a subverted lens of uniform dressing that merged the past and present, the collection offers more than just short skirts, inching higher and higher still. Think: ’90s-era parkas with drawstring hems and unzippered bottoms-constituting a part-boiler suit, part-futuristic uniform, full-zip leather shirts paired with leather pants, asymmetrically layered cotton t-shirts, technical fabric pants and long jackets, and a handful of translucent, crystal-embellished pieces that are bound to become red-carpet fixtures.
“This is not an easy moment to create fashion”, explained Miuccia Prada. “For this collection, I wanted to explore the purpose of fashion, its reason. Its usefulness in society and in culture today. Fashion can have a meaning and a reason beyond utility – to decorate, to attract, is a meaning. But it is important that fashion functions – I am not anti-luxury but I am anti-ostentation”.
She continued, “I am interested in the notion of translation – how to translate a feeling, a mood, a concept, into an object. This collection is about fashion born from reality, and born for reality, to be placed back into that context. Because times are difficult, it does not mean we should not create. But we have to ensure every piece has purpose and reason. This is not a time for meaningless fashion”.