Salvador Dali’s iconic painting, ‘’The Persistence of Memory’’, served as the muse for Jeremy Scott’s latest collection for Moschino. The dripping timepieces in Dali’s surrealist masterpiece inspired a group of garments that were a distorted version of traditional skirt suits and knit dresses. The hems of the clothing were curled like waves, while houndstooth patterns were softened and appeared to be poured on rather than uniform. The flower prints on fitted button-front dresses seemed to ooze down the canvas. Even the buttons appeared to have been exposed to heat.
The slo-mo soundtrack by Michel Gaubert, featuring 45 rpm versions of Frankie Goes to Hollywood’s “Relax” and Corey Hart’s “Sunglasses at Night” played at 33 rpm speed, amplified the surreal feel of the collection. Jeremy Scott pointed out that “We’re living in distorted times” and that things that once seemed familiar are no longer recognizable. He used the collection to comment on the current state of society, just as Dali’s painting was a response to the disintegration of societal beliefs in progress.
However, the Fall/Winter 2023 collection took a mid-show turn, switching gears from the distorted vibe to an aristo-punk aesthetic featuring large crystal embellishments and metal spikes. It’s unclear if this was a nod to the late Vivienne Westwood, but the oversized mohawk hairpieces worn by the models certainly made an impact. Despite not entirely meeting expectations, Jeremy Scott’s Moschino shows are always full of meaningful fun.