This season, Paul Smith staged his intimate couture-style runway presentation at his splendid Paris headquarters, the 17th-century Hotel de Montescot in Le Marais, where he painted the rooms – and even scented them – to jibe with the collection’s Tuscan countryside theme.
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Opening the presentation was a music performance by London-based soul singer Anaïs (who also appears in the brand’s upcoming ad campaign) and her guitarist Luigie Nuñez, who wooed the room with their music style. Introducing her to the audience the unveiling followed with four models showcasing the whole collection. Coming out one by one Smith explained each look, textiles used, inspiration, and how some pieces were inspired from the pandemic with the fabrics he chose to use.
Much of the color of the collection was directly drawn from Smith’s happy place, the area around Lucca in Tuscany where he has summered for many years. The color palette was organic, leading the transition from dawn to dusk, taking in warm orange sunrise hues through to brilliant sky blues and midnight blacks.
The chief motif was the sunflower. Announcing the coming of Spring, sunflowers shot up throughout the collection, reworked in various forms. They popped on fluid tops and skirts, while a jazzy, summery colored chevron pattern climbed up a pair of trousers.
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