There are few working designers so vocally obsessed with youth culture as Raf Simons. But the youth Simons seeks to explore isn’t the youth of today. It’s his own youth that interests him.
Named ‘’Teenage Dreams’’, his Spring/Summer 2021 collection was inspired by classic teen movies spanning multiple decades and genres, from ‘’Hair’’ and ‘’The Breakfast Club’’ to ‘’Scream’’ and ‘’Nightmare on Elm Street’’.
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His new collection embraced timeless silhouettes while expanding the brand’s purview with the inclusion of – for the first time ever – in-house womenswear. This isn’t Simons’ first foray into womenswear, he oversaw the women’s collections during his time at Jil Sander, Dior, and Calvin Klein.
The results: The silhouette was as slim as ever and there was ample sloganeering and graphics, as well as photo prints of family members of Raf’s studio team. Body-hugging tees and turtlenecks featured Simons’ insignia while ‘70s suit shapes were blown into oversized proportions, like swinging vests and wide bell bottom pants. There was also plenty of the kind of thick knits that Simons’ fans love to snap up and retro garments that included sleeveless leather jackets and flared slacks.
There was safety and salability to nostalgia, and in reinforcing his codes he pushed them beyond trend into timelessness.
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