Each passing season brings Anthony Vaccarello closer to Yves Saint Laurent, the founder of the Maison Saint Laurent. While he celebrated Yves Saint Laurent’s relationship with Morocco in his Spring/Summer 2023 men’s collection with an epic desert show, the Brussels-born Belgian designer returned to the Place du Trocadero for a new collection, this time inspired by the Parisian house’s Fall/Winter 1969 haute couture show.
That year, Yves Saint Laurent presented sublime tubular chiffon dresses with integrated hoods adorned with a gold-plated copper on the model Veruschka’s breasts, made in collaboration with artist Claude Lalanne. These same dresses, based on choreographer Martha Graham’s 1930 choreography Lamentation, were shown on the runway installed at the Trocadero, with the majestic Eiffel tower in the background.
Vaccarello cited Martha Graham as the jumping off point for his collection, characterizing her 1930 choreography for Lamentation, with its tubes of fabric as costumes, as having “a profound impact on visual culture and fashion, an influence that rippled far beyond the world of dance and across time”.
The collection was all about length, pants were totally excluded, with a predominance of long wrap dresses, and underbust cutouts, made of transparencies and associated with the skin, which literally glides when models walked, with touches of lilac, burgundy, camel, caramel, lime and the inevitable black color.