The Florentine house Salvatore Ferragamo is going through a transition which will see the arrival of Marco Gobbetti, Burberry’s current CEO, at the management helm of Ferragamo at the beginning of next year, after the departures of creative director Paul Andrew and chief executive officer Micaela le Divelec Lemmi earlier this year.
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Guillaume Meilland, conscripted as Ferragamo’s men’s ready-to-wear design director since 2016, now has the herculean task of leading the women’s PAP design team, while continuing the mens one.
The designer thus dove into the brand’s extensive archive for inspiration, while having in mind the 1977 Luis Buñuel film That Obscure Object of Desire, which sees Carole Bouquet and Àngela Molina play the same role – Buñuel here concretizes the idea of the duplicitous nature of the woman.
For Meilland’s foray into womenswear, he brings with him his menswear aesthetic: lines are clean and simple, and constructions are easy and free moving, and trousers on both men and women are slouchy, sitting easily on the hip. Sarouels and billowy caftan/capes were offered in many iterations; roomy apron dresses with plunging necklines were animated by plays of pleats and trailing side straps; high-waisted wide-legged pants were paired with a disparate variety of tops; draped column dresses had asymmetrical cut-outs revealing flashes of bare skin; while a scarf from the archive depicting poppies on an animal-print background was the main inspiration for prints.
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