In two years, Daniel Roseberry has already emerged as a rising star of the rarefied Paris Haute Couture scene with his Surrealist creations at Schiaparelli.
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Tribute to excesses, his new Schiaparelli’s Fall/Winter 2021 Haute Couture collection was a mash-up of references: from Manet to Lacroix, from the ostentation of the ’80s to some 1880s styles, from the Spanish uniforms of the Matador to the glitter of crystals and metals.
Entitled “The Matador”, his collection “honors Elsa’s [Schiaparelli’s] vision but isn’t in thrall to it. If last season was about deconstruction, about pushing past the boundaries of what couture was, about trying to upend all its unspoken rules, about doing things we weren’t ‘supposed’ to do, this season, I felt the freedom to make something fiercely, undeniably, unapologetically pretty – because sometimes you have to rebel against beauty in order to return to it”.
The presentation featured numerous references to the house’s past, featuring three parts. The first part paid tribute to the brand’s jackets of the past, and it references Schiaparelli’s iconic shapes, among the key looks was a black jacket blooms with pink silk roses, an ode to a collaboration between Schiap and Jean Cocteau circa 1937, or a garment that had been crafted with vintage Schiaparelli swatches each carefully collaged together. The second part focused on the body and bijoux, a key element of the house’s visual vocabulary, and the third part was a flamboyant celebration of color.
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