Sexy and daring, that’s what we could sum up in two words his Spring/Summer 2023 collection that Thom Browne unveiled, on the last day of Paris Fashion Week, in a very chic lounge of the Hotel de Crillon on the Place de Concorde.
As five young boys, dressed in ultra-fitted jackets, shorts, toe shoes and matching attaché cases, walked out onto the runway – the whole audience thought the show had already started – the music suddenly stopped and a bunch of beauties and society ladies – among them Marisa Berenson, Anh Duong and Farida Khelfa – dressed in Thom Browne outfits burst in, invitation card in hand, looking lost and sorry, and looked for their seats. And once they took their seats, the real show began.
On the program for this collection, entitled ‘’Why Not?’’ tweeds and jockstraps! “I thought, why not? I think it’s time for people to start pushing it again”, said Browne.
Models walked the runway in tweed ensembles in a pastel palette of Easter eggs. Emblematic of the house of Chanel, this fabric was designed especially in France for Thom Browne for this collection, which was in fact a vibrant tribute to couture and France, and by extension to Coco Chanel, who popularized it in the 1920s and later became closely associated with the brand.
Tweed was used in every look here – some pieces have intricate embellishments – from blazers to frock coats, mini jackets, overcoats, crop tops, coats, skirts, oversized jackets, pants and very low skirts to loafers, briefcases, belts, ties, jewelry and even jockstraps – the other star of the collection – were dressed in it.
The show ended with a daring final look, preceded by a married couple: a bare-assed cowboy in chaps, a short jacket and a pierced denim phallus, mimicking a western dance to Madonna’s ‘’Don’t Tell Me’’.
Pure Thom Browne!