Forget your trusty blue jeans tucked into Chelsea boots. Acne Studios‘ Fall/Winter 2024 collection isn’t about playing it safe. It’s a denim revolt, a heady cocktail of cyberpunk swagger and rebellious spirit served up in deliciously unconventional cuts and textures.
Founder Jonny Johansson, temporarily absent from the Paris runway for family reasons, checked in via speakerphone, his excitement crackling through the airwaves. “When I see people wearing denim today, it seems new again,” he declared. That sentiment was the driving force behind the collection, a triumphant homecoming for denim, Acne’s very DNA, which had taken a backseat in recent, more “elevated” offerings. But on this Paris runway, denim roared back to life, its rough-and-tumble spirit amplified by the shape-shifting, genre-bending artistry of musician Yves Tumor, Johansson’s muse for the season.
“Yves is always in motion, always changing,” Johansson explains. “Her look is not thought out, but it’s undeniably composed.” That fluidity translates to the clothes themselves. Trompe l’oeil prints of chains and straps dance across denim surfaces, blurring the lines between reality and illusion. Smooth-as-skin ribbed-knit separates, seemingly splashed with paint, reveal their printed patterns only upon closer inspection. It’s a futuristic take on sustainability, a commitment to innovation that pushes the boundaries of denim’s expressive potential.
The cyberpunk influence is undeniable. Bulbous-legged work jeans reminiscent of dystopian cyborgs strut down the runway, juxtaposed with hyper-tight shirts that wouldn’t be out of place in a neon-lit data haven. Johansson, however, avoids a singular vision. He oscillates between loose, high-waisted silhouettes and their slimmer, low-slung counterparts, finding order in the midst of creative chaos.
Rebellion bleeds into every detail. Shearling-lined boots with back pocket uppers hint at biker chic, while oversized fur hats in candy-floss pastels scream playful defiance. Denim bags, both practical and stylish, are a testament to Acne’s ability to combine function with avant-garde flair. And then there’s the pièce de résistance: a skirt emblazoned with a black-gloved hand, middle finger raised in defiance. It’s a timeless gesture, a reminder that every generation has its own reasons to rise up, its own denim-clad battle cry to unleash.
©Photo: Acne Studios