Last season at Acne Studios, Jonny Johansson focused on well-being with duvet dressing inspired. But it’s Spring/Summer now, so he’s peeling off the layers, focusing on undressing, specifically the idea of exposing your lingerie.
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“We live in the age of self-identity, of instinct and experimentation. The look is provocative and hard, yet is grounded in handcrafts that are then subverted. It feels like the movement towards self-identity has been growing for a long time, but since the pandemic, and the death of office-wear, it has become this global force. I wanted to make an instinctive and provocative collection that captured this attitude of experimentation”, said Johansson.
The collection was an ode to contrasts. Permeating the looks was the juxtaposition of chiffon matched with leather and plaid contrasted with lingerie. Celebrating and respecting handcrafts and traditions, the brand also worked with couture corset makers to create many of the pieces in this collection, turning the pieces upside down, inside out, using the construction of corsets not for restriction, but for freedom.
Mustard and tan were regular occurrences in the lineup and the colour of the season – a bright green – made an appearance alongside cerulean blue and deep purple pieces. A white lace bodysuit and cropped leather corset with floral embellishments were notable additions, with every look feeling wearable, while still being flirty and fun.
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