Presented in a plastic bubble forming a giant dome, set on an elevated stage at the Royal Navy College in Greenwich, the Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2023 collection by Sarah Burton is designed by a woman for women in a mood that is both romantic and punk.
Sarah Burton offered up a host of deconstructed silhouettes that were light as air, and cut for flattery and ease of movement.
A stunning dress assembled a large skirt made from the elements of zippered leather jackets, and a strapless top that highlighted the body. The sculptural silhouette typical of the house, with its deep shoulders and hollowed out waist, came in beautiful pantsuits with a huge printed eye.
“The eye is the most unique symbol of humanity-each one is like a fingerprint; each one is completely individual”, she said. Enlarged to football size, it graces a white polyester dress in giant petals, worn over a sports bra. Another of these eyes looks at you furiously on a white viscose double-breasted blazer. The biggest of these eyes adorned a crystal encrusted leotard with attached stockings worn by Naomi Campbell.
Burton also cited Hieronymus Bosch as an inspiration, and his influence is evident in the collection: three looks feature the artist’s fantastic illustrations of religious narratives printed on satin stitch embroidery, one on a body and draped corset belt, another on a bodysuit and a third on an evening gown with a trailing train.