Anna Sui‘s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, unveiled amidst the dusty tomes of New York City’s iconic Strand bookstore, was a masterclass in vintage-infused grunge cool. Stepping outside the fashion week frenzy, Sui crafted a story spanning decades, where Agatha Christie’s Miss Marple met 90s grunge and Virginia Woolf’s literary charm.
Imagine Fair Isle knits juxtaposed with orange tweed kilts, or sequined maxiskirts paired with hand-dyed vintage lingerie. This was Sui’s magic: weaving eras together with effortless panache. The likes of Marc Jacobs, Sofia Coppola, and Debbie Harry witnessed the magic firsthand, a testament to Sui’s enduring influence.
The soundtrack pulsed with Sonic Youth and Elastica, while the clothes whispered of past decades. A faux suede jacket with lamb trim sat atop a stretch velvet cropped top, while a nubby knit mingled with a silk slipdress. Each look, a magpie’s delight, celebrating the eclectic spirit of vintage.
Anna Sui, a vintage aficionado herself, collaborated with Eveliina Vintage, integrating one-of-a-kind lingerie finds into the collection. Argyle socks and tapestry Gladstone bags completed the picture, a modern interpretation of bookish grunge that resonated with the Gen Z crowd in attendance.
Sui, ever the keen observer, incorporated street style trends like the resurgence of babushkas and vintage love. Souvenir scarves and hand-dyed retro slips became runway staples, seamlessly blended with Sui’s own designs.
Remember her Greene Street store with its dedicated vintage section? The spirit lives on. Sui’s e-commerce site now houses a selection of Eveliina’s pieces, alongside archival treasures from her own past collections. It’s a treasure trove for those seeking Sui’s unique blend of past and present.
The final applause lingered long after the last model exited. Anna Sui’s time machine had transported the audience, leaving them wanting more. Perhaps it’s the effortless cool, the masterful storytelling, or the sheer joy of fashion unbound by trends. Whatever it is, Anna Sui’s Fall/Winter 2024 is a collection that will stay with you, long after the final curtain falls.
©Photo: Anna Sui