For her first runway display with an audience since taking over as creative director of the French fashion house Chloé last December, Gabriela Hearst opted for a postcard Paris setting: along the banks of the Seine with Notre-Dame de Paris Cathedral in the background and in brilliant sunshine.
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“As cheesy as it sounds, this collection is about love”, Hearst said. “It’s really about the love of so many things: the love of craft, the love of friendship, the love of fellow humans”.
Known for her steadfast dedication to sustainability and earthy aesthetic, Hearts continues to imbue the brand’s latest creations with her environmentally conscious values, while celebrating some of the Maison’s signature codes.
Caftans, ponchos, lacy dresses, and smattering of boyish pantsuits – many embellished with handcrafted details – the collection was fully in the tradition of the free-spirited Chloé girl brand identity that has been passed down from hand to hand by a succession of women designers, from Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo onward. Hearst said she was introducing a Chloé Craft symbol to designate the items at the “top of the pyramid” that showcase the craftsmanship of independent artisans.
“Luxury fashion started to look industrialized to me”, she explained. “So it’s really important to differentiate that, because we know it, but I think a lot of people are losing this realization that certain things cannot be done by a machine”.
The collection featured classic silhouettes such as tailored suits, bodycon maxi dresses, and slim-cut faux leather coats. The overall collection had a casual elegance that combines the chic austerity of French fashion with American modernity. The result was a colorfully neutral series of garments that seamlessly blended with the sunny Parisian backdrop.
- Elsa Zylberstein covers Elle France January 20th, 2022 by Dant Studio
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