The Fall/Winter 2023 collection of Coach made a return to the Park Avenue Armory, but this time in a more intimate setting. Instead of the large-scale presentation of the previous season, the show was held in the reception rooms, surrounded by the military portraits and dramatic chandeliers, creating a backdrop that was steeped in the building’s history. This change in setting was a reflection of Stuart Vevers’ aim to bring a sense of intimacy to the collection and its presentation.
The silhouette for the season was long and lean, opening with a striped turtleneck that combined a modest style with a body-hugging fit. This was paired with maxi skirts and flared jeans, worn by a diverse range of models, some of whom were street-cast.
As expected, leather was a prominent feature in the collection, with the designer and his team experimenting with treated and textured leathers to give the impression of a rich history. A patchwork leather maxi coat, made from scraps from their factory, was a standout piece with a distinct 1970s vibe. The collection also included gauzy slipdresses in soft shades, dyed using natural dyes, which provided a welcome contrast to the heavier leather and denim pieces.
The accessories were a playful addition to the collection, with purses shaped like dinosaurs, lips, stars, and moons, as well as earrings made from molds of doll shoes, candy, and lollipops. Vevers had a lot of fun exploring American candies, and the accessories added a light-hearted touch to the collection.
The stars of the show were the shearling pieces, including a double-breasted distressed metallic yellow jacket and pants, and a reversible aviator coat made from different lengths of shearling. The finale was particularly memorable, with the shearling adorned with tiny jewels that caught the light, creating a sparkling effect.