David Koma was in a relaxed and positive state of mind the day before his latest runway show. Despite the usual pre-show nerves, Koma felt confident about the collection he had put together, and was excited about how everything was coming together.
The Fall/Winter 2023 collection from Koma was inspired by the legendary German-American actress Marlene Dietrich, who served as his muse. Koma has always been a big admirer of Dietrich, and he wanted to pay homage to her life and work by placing her at the center of his collection. Dietrich was known for being daring and was one of the first major names in the entertainment industry to experiment with androgynous style, making her an ideal muse for Koma’s collection.
The designer incorporated design elements from the 1930s and 1960s, and put his own twist on them to create a modern wardrobe for women. Koma’s signature party attire was also on full display, with asymmetrical tops, skirts, and dresses in shades of lipstick and sorbet tones, embellished with satin and knits. There was a section of intricate pieces featuring hand-cut patent leather flowers and silver rings that took Koma’s couture-minded approach to ready-to-wear a step further.
Smoking motifs were present in the form of biker outerwear and jewelry pieces, created in collaboration with designer Emily Frances Barrett. The show, which took place on the 11th floor of a commercial skyscraper in the Barbican area, was a tribute to the glamour of Hollywood, with a crimson floor that evoked an actual red carpet.