The Spring/Summer 2024 collection by David Koma takes a royal detour by drawing inspiration from an unusual muse – Queen Elizabeth II, and her military service during the 1940s. This juxtaposition of the Queen’s femininity and the darker, edgier vibes from her past reflect a remarkable dialogue in Koma’s latest designs. The vivid botanical colors and floral motifs, especially the rose, which symbolizes peace in English culture, are prominently featured, creating a contrast with the austere setting of Tate Modern’s basement show space. Further, the collection also includes 3D rose and daisy designs, crystal embellishments, and a new handbag line inspired by the late queen’s style.
David Koma’s fascination with Queen Elizabeth II stems from his long-standing desire to dress the monarch. When he stumbled upon pictures of the Queen during her training as a mechanic and motorbike driver, Koma was intrigued by the contrast between her well-known femininity and the darker, edgier vibe she portrayed during her military service. This inspired a collection that is a tribute to her majesty, blending feminine and darker elements, ultimately embodied in a variety of floral interpretations.
Central to the collection is the rose, a symbol of peace since the Tudor era of Henry VIII. Minidresses featuring hand-drawn roses digitally printed on stretch transparent mesh, in shades of pink, white, green, and black, pay homage to this emblem. The rose insignia is also brought to life through ornamental 3D structures, a signature of the David Koma brand. Enlarged rose and daisy designs, accentuated with crystal embellishments, adorn an array of evening-appropriate dresses in black and pink. Another interpretation features chain-mail-esque elements, including a dress covered in miniature daisy-like structures, and ruffle skirts mimicking the silhouette of a blossoming flower.
Additionally, the collection draws inspiration from Marianne Faithfull’s portrayal of the rebellious character Rebecca in the 1968 film “The Girl on a Motorcycle.” This is reflected in miniature 3D roses handcrafted from resin in white, pink, and tangerine hues, adorning padded biker jackets, another hallmark of Koma’s designs, as well as sheer dresses and twinsets.
An exciting addition to the collection is a new handbag line inspired by the late queen’s style. Four shapes in metallic shades are introduced, with the highlight being the sculptural Apex clutch. Described by Koma as resembling a shark fin or a rose thorn, depending on the vibe one is going for, it showcases the designer’s deep understanding of his clientele’s preferences and his commitment to enriching their wardrobes with his hyperfeminine, sci-fi aesthetic.
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©Photo: David Koma
