In a world where fashion conventions are meant to be broken, Diesel‘s Resort 2025 (Cruise 2025) collection, under the creative direction of Glenn Martens, shows the brand’s commitment to defying norms and democratizing style. The collection seamlessly blends the intimate with the outerwear, the casual with the tailored, and the raw with the refined, creating a wardrobe that transcends the boundaries of traditional fashion.
As Glenn Martens himself puts it, “This is a collection that blurs the lines: is tailoring smart or casual? Is a piece denim, or is it trompe l’oeil? And with our new underwear, is it an intimate piece, or is it ready-to-wear? Diesel defies all conventions, breaking from the norm to live on its own terms – this is the path to successful living.”
The collection features innovative fabric treatments such as screen-coated wool tailoring, which creates a double effect of matte wool on the back and shiny coating on the front, as seen on city coats, suit jackets and trousers. Denim suit jackets are printed to mimic pinstripes, while jersey pieces are designed to look like denim, further subverting traditional tailoring.
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Diesel’s take on the three-piece suit is a testament to their playful approach to fashion, with a zip-up denim vest and mini skirt partially printed with pinstripes, paired with a ruffled sweatshirt and track pants that look like denim but are actually made of jersey. The brand’s commitment to fabric innovation is evident in pieces like a fleece zipper that looks like denim, perfect for pairing with jersey leggings that resemble skinny jeans.
Runway-inspired ideas are sprinkled throughout the collection, such as belt bags that transform into garments like crop tops, bra tops and miniskirts. Underwear becomes a focal point, with jersey dresses, vest tops, cardigans and skirts trimmed and held by the stitching lines of bras, thongs or corsets. Knits are given a punk-inspired edge with vibrant tufting that references spiked hair.
Prints make a bold statement, from close-ups of glaring spotlights to crumpled aluminum foil that creates a shattering effect. Floral prints on shirts and distressed skirts play with propriety, while specially drawn prints by Berlin tattoo artist Sagflap present a twisted fantasy.
Utility pieces for city living include zip-up leather jackets with oversized bellow pockets and faded denim knit zip-up cardigans, vests and dresses with attached denim utility pockets. The brand’s new underwear line, featuring denim-effect leggings, vests, miniskirts, long-sleeved tops and dresses, proves that underwear can be the most practical garment of all.
Accessories complete the look with camo boots and pumps printed on sheer mesh with metal stiletto heels and a metal D on the back of the heel. The Play bag comes in new photo print colors, while the Scrunch-D bag, which debuted at the Fall/Winter 2024 show, is available in shiny black patent. Mini versions of Diesel bags serve as charms on other bags, adding a playful touch.
With sales up 13% year-over-year in 2023, Diesel under Glenn Martens is proving to be a winner by offering a democratic alternative to conventional luxury, defined less by price point and more by attitude. The Resort 2025 collection continues the Martens formula, blurring archetypes and typologies to create a wardrobe that stretches from the streets to the steps of The Met.
Read more: Chanel Cruise 2025
©Photo: Diesel
