Erdem Moralıoğlu’s latest collection was inspired by his recent move into a Georgian house in London with a rich history. The house, which served as a “home of hope” for fallen and “friendless” women in Victorian times, provided ample inspiration for the designer.
Moralıoğlu, known for his historical references in his fashion collections, was delighted to discover intriguing details about the house’s past residents. From an illustration of bare buttocks to documentation of a riot caused by two drunken residents, the designer was able to bring to life the stories of these women. The discovery of arsenic green wallpaper in one of the rooms added to the concept of women who have come undone.
The designer’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection, titled “Undone“, showcased his signature meticulous craftsmanship, with a focus on elegant and decaying details. The patchy lighting at the show created a moody atmosphere, as if the fallen women were trying to sneak back into their home after curfew. Despite the dark setting, the intricate jet-bead embroideries on coats, the metallic brocade skirts, and watery floral prints were not lost on the audience.
Moralıoğlu also took inspiration from the fashion house Miu Miu, cropping tuxedo shirts into little boleros and Aran sweaters into tummy-baring toppers, adorned with lace and jet embroideries. The show began with mostly black trench coats and riding jackets, symbolizing mourning, before gradually incorporating more color and decoration, including acid greens and deep purples.
The designer described the collection as “dissolving into a hallucinogenic kind of reverie“, and it was clear that the rich history of the house he now calls home played a significant role in bringing this dream-like collection to life.