Women’s empowerment is always very strong in Gabriela Hearst’s DNA, and that intention was even more explicit this season in her collection.
In an empty warehouse in Navy Yard, a changing industrial neighborhood of Brooklyn, her Spring/Summer 2023 collection featured her friends, alongside professional models, Cecile Richards, the former director of Planned Parenthood, Xiye Bastida, the Mexican activist who co-founded the Re-Earth movement, Lauren Wasser, who had both her legs amputated because of a tampon, the Spanish singer Leiva or even the Argentine director Clara Cullen in bright and sunny silhouettes. “It’s like this army of happy, strong people coming together”, Hearst said.
While craftsmanship is always a big part of her collections, this season was no exception. Black jersey dresses were adorned with gold leather appliqué to evoke Athena, goddess of wisdom and war; silk ladder knit dresses were as fine as spider webs; or dresses and suits were decorated with three-dimensional gold thread embroidery.
Dominated by black and white, this contemporary and sensual wardrobe was set ablaze by gold, red, yellow and orange.