Givenchy, a prominent fashion house in the French fashion canon, is known for its patrician aspect and perceived conservatism. However, its new creative director, Matthew M. Williams, is working to blend his own design identity with the Givenchy legacy.
At the recent womenswear show, held at the École Militaire’s Givenchy white box, Williams showcased his new vision for the brand. The collection opened with black tailoring, featuring sartorial details such as box pleats and buttoned-down pleats, and then moved on to leather jackets that are the defining pieces of this new phase at Givenchy. The collection then shifted to deconstructed monochromatic tailoring and separates before transitioning into a second act that was all Williams’ own creation. This act featured layered distressed leathers and fabrics in aggregate layers.
The third act was all about dresses, starting with emerald green looks and including archive pieces from Givenchy’s history, as well as references to other fashion greats like Gianni Versace. The dresses were often cut open at the back, with some featuring molded corsetry.
Carine Roitfeld, who has been consulting with Williams and Givenchy on womenswear, was in attendance at the show. Williams spoke highly of his collaboration with Roitfeld, saying: “We have a dialogue about making desirable clothes. I am so inspired by the women around me. And you know, spending so much time with Carine, she understands the house so well. We literally just talk about clothes“.
With Roitfeld’s guidance, Williams is shaping a new Givenchy womenswear identity that encompasses multiple generations and continents. The recent womenswear show was a promising step towards this new vision for the iconic fashion house.