Peter Do’s sophomore effort, for Fall/Winter 2024, at the helm of Helmut Lang exudes a newfound assurance, crafting a collection that’s both timely and distinctly “Lang.” Gone are the initial jitters of his debut, replaced by a focused vision that seamlessly blends protection and projection in a world grappling with anxieties.
“What makes Helmut Helmut is to embrace duality,” Do declares, and Fall/Winter 2024 embodies this perfectly. Oversized coats, some reminiscent of the iconic “subway shirt,” offer comfort and a shield against the outside world, while sheer bubble-wrap separates hint at vulnerability with a cool, modern edge.
The collection pulsates with a futuristic militarism. Think sharp, waist-defined blazers, long trouser skirts, and cargo pants, all cloaked in sleek black. High-collar sweaters peek out from underneath, adding a layer of coziness. Do masterfully navigates the line between harsh and human, creating garments that are both protective and undeniably stylish.
Do doesn’t shy away from Lang’s rebellious spirit. Denim, leather, and scale-like textures elevate everyday pieces, while thoughtful details like scarf panels and face-shielding collars imbue them with a subtle edge. Even softer moments, like the mustard yellow parka and sidewalk-grazing jersey skirt, retain a touch of Lang’s signature cool.
Reinterpreting archival elements like the Chinatown bag plaids might seem derivative, but Do imbues them with his own perspective. As he hones his craft, his reliance on these nods to the past will likely wane, replaced by an even stronger personal stamp.
While capturing the exact “smell” of the original Helmut Lang might be impossible, Peter Do‘s Fall/Winter 2024 collection proves he understands the brand’s essence. He injects a contemporary relevance, crafting a uniform for navigating the complexities of our times with both style and substance. This is a Helmut Lang for a new era, and it’s a vision that feels right on time.