Simon Porte Jacquemus staged a spectacular Fall/Winter 2024 show in Capri, showcasing his evolving design aesthetic and newfound focus on craftsmanship. Set against the stunning backdrop of the Casa Malaparte, a modernist Italian villa perched on vertiginous cliffs, the collection marked a creative rite of passage for the designer.
Jacquemus described the collection as “evolving into something new. A new kind of sexiness. Realistic but also minimal; almost two-dimensional.’’ The show opened with a creamy-pale tufted bathrobe coat, a subtle nod to Brigitte Bardot’s iconic scene in Jean Luc Godard’s ”Le Mepris,” filmed on the same terrace. The collection featured recognizable Jacquemus silhouettes, such as shawl-collared Provencal jackets in vermilion, yellow, stark black or white, paired with high-waisted A-line skirts, full tailored trousers or bermudas.
The menswear line featured tops derived from sailor’s smocks, paired with asymmetrical collared shirts and color-coordinated pleated trousers. Accessories played an important role with soft foldover clutches, top-handle bags and shopping totes in vibrant shades of turquoise, leaf green, pink and yellow.
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Jacquemus’s foray into sinuously draped chiffon or jersey dresses, swooping in the back or slit at the sides to reveal bodysuits, added a touch of sophistication to the brand’s signature skin-baring aesthetic. “I wanted it to be surprising, sensual, more ‘woman,’” he explained.
Known for his stylish and affordable collections, the designer is focused on improving the quality of his work. ”I’m ambitious to work every day and make things better and better,” he said. “It’s taken time, and it’s a fight with factories, to work with a new savoir faire.”
Jacquemus’ efforts have paid off, as the brand has seen a surge in ready-to-wear sales. “We have never sold as much. Our stores used to be full of people buying one bag. Now we have people spending 15,000 [euros] on clothes,” he said.
As Simon Porte Jacquemus continues to evolve as a designer and a father, his commitment to his craft remains unwavering. “I will be doing this, the same, for my whole life,” he affirmed, promising a bright future for the Jacquemus brand.
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©Photo: Jacquemus
