Simon Porte Jacquemus surprised audiences with a Spring/Summer 2024 collection that marked a shift in direction while retaining his signature playful and irreverent spirit. The show, held at the Fondation Maeght amidst stunning sculptures by Alberto Giacometti and Joan Miró, was a captivating blend of pop and bourgeois luxury with plenty of surrealist touches.
Jacquemus himself declared the collection “pop-luxe,” and it certainly lived up to the name. Vibrant colors, playful proportions, and eye-catching details like trompe l’oeil double heels exuded youthful energy. Yet the collection never descended into crassness, thanks to the designer’s meticulous attention to fabrication and construction. Think luxurious knits, buttery leathers and impeccably tailored silhouettes, all infused with a touch of whimsy.
The unexpected twist came in the form of “quiet luxury” references. Miniature sweaters resembling preppy staples were sent as invitations, and the runway itself was a canvas of muted monochromes punctuated by pops of red. This bourgeois foundation served as a springboard for Jacquemus’ surrealist imagination, resulting in garments adorned with oversized collars, distorted waistlines, and even fabric “elephant ears” sprouting from the waist.
The influence of art was undeniable. Giacometti’s elongated figures found echoes in pencil-thin dresses, while details like stand-up collars and amplified waistbands whispered of Surrealist masters like Dalí. The mood board also featured icons of French style like Catherine Deneuve and Isabelle Adjani, adding a touch of timeless elegance to the mix.
While Jacquemus is known for his visually striking presentations, this season he emphasized the importance of product quality. From the luxurious fabrics to the intricate details, the collection underscored his commitment to craftsmanship and dispelled any doubts about his focus on aesthetics alone.
This show marked a subtle shift for the brand, signaling a move in a more upscale direction. While Jacquemus assures his loyal customers that the brand’s core values remain unchanged, the collection hints at an ambition to join the ranks of legendary French fashion houses. With his unique vision, unwavering dedication and a healthy dose of playful subversion, Jacquemus is undoubtedly on his way to achieving his dreams.