The Jason Wu Collection’s Fall/Winter 2023 line debuted in a spectacular showcase at the Guggenheim Museum’s Peter B. Lewis Theater. The renowned designer took the audience on a journey through his creative evolution, breaking free from the constraints of his control-oriented personality to present a collection that was liberating and different.
Wu emphasized the importance of exploring new horizons and expanding his horizons in the fashion world. He drew inspiration from menswear tailoring, his major in fashion design, and blended it with signature sportswear, lingerie references, and elements of deconstruction. The collection was a mix of delicate, feminine gowns and strategic, undone pieces with a boudoir sensibility.
The designer’s interpretation of liberation was reflected in the collection’s dark romance and the use of craftsmanship. The pieces were tailored to perfection, with double-faced wool tailoring, hidden chiffon inserts, and delicate sheer black lace and chiffon blouses and dresses. Wu’s friend and previous collaborator Jessica May Underwood was responsible for the creation of the intricate custom lace floral embroideries, which were inspired by the botanical photography of German artist Karl Blossfeldt.
The graphic prints of the florals were showcased in daywear, while shimmering, allover embellishments were displayed on delicate, sheer numbers that closed the show. The collection was a celebration of Wu’s creative evolution, a testament to his talent and a glimpse into the designer’s liberated and daring future.