Imagine stepping into a dark, enchanting forest, where whispers of fairytales intertwine with subversive shadows. This is the evocative setting conjured by Jason Wu Collection’s latest Fall/Winter 2024 collection, aptly named “Nocturne.” It’s a journey through rich textures, deconstructed luxury, and a captivating evolution of the designer’s signature style.
Building upon the sea-washed, glamorous spirit of his Spring/Summer collection, “Nocturne” unfolds like a sophisticated sister. Stunning craftsmanship and luxurious deconstruction remain central themes, but here, Wu injects a touch of personal growth. He revisits inspirations from his Fall/Winter 2009 collection, drawing on the fantastical illustrations of Arthur Rackham, yet imbues them with a darker, more intriguing edge.
“2009 to now, it’s very interesting,” Wu reflects. “Everyone should be lucky to be put in a box because that means you’re known for something. But we all need to evolve, and I’ve evolved a lot.” This desire for evolution fuels the collection, pushing beyond expectations while celebrating American design heritage.
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Rich textures take center stage, from inside-out constructions to hand-drawn flora and fauna motifs. Deconstructed luxury sportswear mingles seamlessly with “glamour, glamour,” exemplified by the opening drapey jersey dress with exposed seams – an ode to American design icon Geoffrey Beene.
Jason Wu’s signature architecturally draped corsets return, reimagined in rust-toned, crushed gold metal satin and muslin-hued silk. These “Charles James moments” are pure fashion poetry, alongside sensual, hand-shredded organza dresses reminiscent of healing bark.
Beyond personal references, Jason Wu weaves in exciting collaborations with “new school” talents. Plush cashmere knits by Crush Collection and gilded jewelry by Sauer add contemporary touches, while the first-ever footwear partnership with Gianvito Rossi brings an extra layer of chic sophistication.
Wu’s dedication to detail shines through. Three months spent on fabric development translates into stunning pieces like grosgrain-woven bustiers nestled within raw-edged suiting, and delicate floral embroidered sheer origami tops.
Ultimately, “Nocturne” is a tapestry woven with dark, moody beauty. It demands an up-close gaze, rewarding the attentive eye with intricate details and layers of meaning. This is a collection that invites exploration, challenging perceptions and pushing boundaries without sacrificing sophistication.
Read more: Prabal Gurung Fall/Winter 2024 – New York Fashion Week
©Photo: Jason Wu
