The Lucie and Luke Meier Pre-Fall 2022 collection for Jil Sander touches upon apparently incompatible feelings and attitudes but achieves an overarching sentiment: feminine, luminous, empowering.
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The palette is exuberant in colour, diagonal stripes, leather and shearling (only by products of other industries), floral prints and velvet devoré. Textures, volumes, hues and different degrees of warmth constantly shift. Shapes, materials and prints which are not normally associated with classical elegance, shimmering jersey velvet pyjamas, a leopard print coat, or a pumpkin down jacket, are elevated by the way they are shaped, the quality of the fabrics, and the making.
Simultaneously, perfectly cut single and double-breasted jackets and coats, in cashmere, in dry Japanese wool, in plump Italian double-faced wool, in cotton silk and viscose, and in knits so tight that they become fabric, reference the most refined translation of tailoring, with clear references to menswear and workwear.
Focal are dresses, skirts, knitwear, and shirts, as are the elaborated embroideries, jacquards, and weaves which turn them into lavish, unique pieces. Important are French knots, Japanese yarns hand-stitched with chenille ribbons, double-faced reversible knits, and sequined crochet. A soft undyed silk evening dress, layered with fringes, is classically bias cut and extremely feminine. It is complemented – in the continuous game of mirrors of the collection – by a caftan embroidered with flat chiffon threads, a felted wool skirt, a sharp and dry silk and viscose matt black dress, or an iconic blue, green, and cream long shirt-dress knitted with wool and silk yarns.
The silhouettes are bold and relaxed at the same time. Trousers are either long, relaxed and tightened to the ankle or cropped and flared.
Shoes are extreme in shape, construction, and material – leather, shiny and textured, shearling, and printed croc. Colours vary – white, cream, chocolate, pale blue, and black. Boots, low boots, or sandals are all pointy or super squared, and have carved or round flared sculptural heels. A boot is ruched just below the knee and at the ankle, extending the detailing of the garments.
Together with the footwear, bags and jewellery contribute significantly to the collection. The new proposals of the Goji frame bag and the Sombrero bag give a sharper and softer accent to every look and silhouette, while the graphic bamboo and metal wristbands and rings, the jewel buttons, important brass necklaces, and silver mobile earrings enhance the sense of fluidity of this new series in Lucie and Luke Meier’s work at Jil Sander.
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