Marc Jacobs returned to the Park Avenue Armory after a three-year hiatus, showcasing a collection that was vastly different from his previous show in February 2020. This time, the event was almost a requiem, marked by a masterful display of showmanship and attention to detail. The runway was defined by a single row of chairs for attendees and a single light strobe, with Jennifer Koh playing a solo violin and models wearing unisex and gender-fluid designs.
Titled “Heroes“, the Spring/Summer 2023 collection paid homage to past and present figures in fashion, including the late Vivienne Westwood. The show was a combination of military and utility dress, homespun craft, youth culture, and gilded glamour, all wrapped into a highly artistic package. The opening was marked by bedazzled and reworked denim and utility pieces, with slimmer proportions and masterful craftsmanship. The designer showed his creativity with a focus on proportions, as seen in his patchwork numbers, gorgeous dresses, topcoats, and plush knits.
Jacobs’ collection was a celebration of fashion as a life-changing experience and a tribute to the DIY spirit. The pieces were commercially savvy and artistic, showcasing the designer’s skill in reconstructing garments and playing with volumes. As New York Fashion Week approaches, Marc Jacobs’ collection served as a reminder of why he remains a shining star in the global fashion industry.