After years of weaving menswear into her universe, Marine Serre finally unveils a full, stand-alone men’s line for Fall/Winter 2024, proving that the “Marine Serre man” is ready for his solo runway debut.
Seven years into her label’s journey, the French designer is making a pivotal shift. Moving beyond co-ed presentations, Serre dedicates this season to the men who have embraced her eco-conscious creations, whispered about them through girlfriends, and glimpsed them on the sidelines of her shows. The result? A 33-look collection pulsing with her signature codes, reimagined for a dedicated menswear audience.
Fans of Serre’s upcycled treasures won’t be disappointed. Bed-sheet shirts and silk scarf creations mingle with a growing line of responsible and certified fibers, and her crescent emblem appears on everything from jeans to leather jackets. But alongside these familiar whispers of the past, a bolder voice is emerging.
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Jacquard tailoring, wool coats and argyle knits elevate the collection, while the brand’s first loafer struts onto the scene. Leather, now sourced and produced in-house, takes center stage in airbrushed crescent pants that exemplify Serre’s commitment to quality and control.
As Marine Serre’s business scales, she grapples with the inherent paradox of sustainable fashion. Pure upcycling, with its limited availability and price points, becomes a challenge to reconcile with growth. The answer? A strategic mix of upcycled pieces, like the ingenious spliced t-shirts, alongside certified and recycled materials.
Serre acknowledges that it is rare for brands to balance designer aesthetics, fair pricing and environmental responsibility. But with Ssense, Dover Street Market, and Boon the Shop already on board, her vision is gaining momentum and paving the way for others to follow.
Released in three phases from June to August, the collection transcends the confines of a single show. Boxy wool jacquards juxtapose fatherly tailoring with youthful Bermudas, while a hikecore twist reinvents the iconic Serre sneaker. Denim takes center stage in three distinct cuts, including a fresh articulated knee iteration and a nostalgic nod to the twisted Levi’s of yore.
Creatively uninhibited, Serre could have easily flooded the runway with garments, but her business-savvy spirit prevails. With meticulous editing, she distills her vision into three powerful denim shapes and thoughtfully deploys her signature crescent moon, letting it whisper on pale washes and recede into the shadows of mix-and-match blacks.
Bowling bags and rugged post-inspired counterparts add utility, while an unexpected abundance of ties, both leather and fabric, punctuate the collection, even adorning an all-denim look. Serre’s commitment to craftsmanship shines through in upcycled scarves transformed into soft sportswear, djellabas and bed sheet cotton shirting, while moonstruck argyle knits add a touch of whimsical charm.
For a debut menswear collection, Marine Serre’s Fall/Winter 2024 offering is remarkably comprehensive. It’s a testament to her ability to translate her unique codes into a distinct menswear vocabulary that feels both familiar and refreshingly new. With its thoughtful layers of sustainability, elevated essentials, and masterful tailoring, the “Marine Serre man” is finally ready to claim his own spotlight.
Read more: Hed Mayner Fall/Winter 2024 – Paris Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: Marine Serre
