Miu Miu made a bold statement at their latest runway show by collaborating with South Korean choreographer and performance artist Geumhyung Jeong. Known for her unique style of manipulating mechanical objects and creating sensual and edgy performances, the brand aimed to bring a touch of techno-intimacy to their latest collection. However, the artist’s work was not as prominent as many had expected, only appearing as a looping film on TV monitors hanging over the runway.
Despite this, the collection itself was a standout, elevating everyday wear with a gender-fluid expression that was unlike anything seen before. 15-year-old Zaya Wade made her runway debut in a green knit dress and oversize blazer, while “The Crown” actress Emma Corrin, who identifies as nonbinary, walked the runway in a camel sweater and chunky crystal panties. The collection projected the Euphoria generation’s laissez-faire attitude towards sexuality, which was on full display among the front-row guests who wore transparent sequined slipdresses with nothing more than Miu Miu logos.
For the Fall/Winter 2023, the collection was focused on pant-less looks with oversize peacoats and hoodies, paired with tonal tights and slingback shoes. The brand continued to play with lingerie dressing, showcasing sheer polka dot skirts, sheer mesh dresses, and cardigans with 3D crystal flower embroidery. The leggings, sneakers, hoodies, and outerwear looks were a nod to the reality that most people are still living in, even as designers have shown lots of sophisticated suiting this month. The crinkly leather micro-mini dresses and meaty jacket and skirt suits were also well received, adding a touch of dressed-up elegance to the collection.
The brand said that the term “gender-fluid” was the preferred term and the casting reflected that, with lots of looks that could be considered menswear. Although the collection could have used an edit and a few more fireworks, it still showcased the brand’s quirky, undone elegance better than anyone else in the industry. The disheveled hair and eyeglasses glam was thoroughly relatable, making it a standout collection in a season where quirky elegance has been a hot topic.