Tasked with preserving Nina Ricci’s haute couture legacy for the present and future, Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter understand that a certain adaptability is necessary to create a relevant product. They want to “ground couture memories in everyday ways”, as Herrebrugh said. Their Fall/Winter 2021 collection conveyed – through construction and illusion – couture shapes in garments devoid of the trussed-up constriction those structures would traditionally entail.
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In a circular space, all-white save for a series of empty electric blue chairs lining the walls, the collection was unveiled in a buoyant, energetic digital launch, a synth beat as colorful, as bright, as stimulating as the garments themselves.
The collection was a mix of vintage-inspired tailoring and sportswear staples in colorful fabrics, including garment-dyed nylons and technical wools in tropical shades.
Jackets and outerwear are this label’s strong point. Duffle coats featured oversize removable scarves, while windbreakers came with gently curved backs, in a nod to Ricci’s couture heritage. There were playful touches, too, like the shaggy fur collar on a weathered pink nylon parka, and a tent-like duvet swing coat.
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