For his Spring/Summer 2023 collection for Paco Rabanne, presented off-calendar in Paris and ahead of Haute Couture fashion week, Julien Dossena, the house’s artistic director since 2013, made a rather dramatic shift, from clothes for parties and disco nights to a darker mood, in tune with the rapidly souring political climate.
So it was a surprising change of tack to hear him talk about “chaos, a little violence and anger” and “radical sensuality“.
“I wanted a strong, determined woman this season, so I explored quite a bit of new material“, Dossena previewed. “It felt like preparation for battle, in a way“.
Blending grunge and underground culture, his collection exalted sexy, sensuality and uncompromising subversion. While founder Paco Rabanne loved metal and fiberglass, Julien Dossena preferred softer alternatives this season, such as liquid latex called “Giffo“, transparent PVC or even the house’s signature thin chainmail.
Each look combined hybrid materials and a stunning and daring styling that played with volumes and cuts.