Amidst the frenetic energy of New York Fashion Week, Proenza Schouler‘s Fall/Winter 2024 collection offered a moment of thoughtful respite. Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez dialed down the noise, both literally and figuratively, presenting a collection that embraced quiet luxury, comfort, and introspective silhouettes.
Gone were the playful prints and embellishments of previous seasons. Instead, blacks and subtle neutrals dominated the palette, punctuated by occasional pops of ivory, red, and peach. Tailoring echoed the spirit of 90s minimalist Helmut Lang, featuring sharp lines and clean cuts juxtaposed with the enveloping comfort of oversized scarves and swaddling cowls.
McCollough and Hernandez acknowledged the current global turmoil, stating their desire to “focus inward, focus on something a little intimate.” This sentiment translated into an abundance of cozy shearling vests, coats, and maxi dresses that draped sensuously over the body. The layering felt both protective and luxurious, offering a comforting escape from the harsh realities of the outside world.
Black emerged as the collection’s dominant color, reflecting the melancholic undercurrent present in many Fall/Winter 2024 shows. However, Proenza Schouler’s use of black wasn’t somber but rather elegant. Boiled wool peacoats, double-faced coats with shielding collars, and sleek leather sheaths exuded a quiet sophistication, proving that black can be both powerful and serene.
Despite the overarching introspective mood, hints of playfulness peeked through. Finale dresses with slashed backs offered a glimpse of bare skin, symbolizing the tension between vulnerability and self-preservation. Net dresses with transformable capes and sheer-opaque jersey combinations added a touch of unexpectedness, reminding us that even in dark times, there’s room for moments of delight.
McCollough and Hernandez understand the challenges of navigating fashion’s ever-changing landscape. They’ve streamlined their approach, focusing on two main collections that are both commercially viable and artistically satisfying. They’ve also tapped into international markets, recognizing the potential for growth beyond traditional boundaries.
©Photo: Proenza Schouler