The enigmatic allure of Rick Owens, a name that resonates with innovation and artistic expression in the fashion industry, has woven another narrative, a compelling dance between the ethereal and the tangible in the Spring/Summer 2024 collection. In the serene ambience of Palais de Tokyo, a collection sprang to life, encapsulating a saga of transformation – where the intricate aesthetics of Owens unearths a bridge between the nostalgic and the futuristic.
In this collection, Rick Owens introduces us to a symphony of contrasts. Inspired by elements as whimsical as donuts and spun sugar, the designer paints a masterpiece of eco-nylon tulle fabrics seamlessly woven together with silk organza. The delicate intricacies of this meticulous craftsmanship reflect a journey to simplicity and elegance, where every piece embodies a narrative of sartorial excellence, mirroring the grace of Parisian confections.
Yet, amid the serenity and elegance, there lies a rebellion, an untethered spirit that Owens is renowned for. The collection unveils bubble-shaped minidresses crafted in crumpled leather, reminiscent of John Chamberlain’s iconic foam sculptures. The boxy, voluminous jumpsuits in silk gazar echo the minimalist yet profound artistry of Donald Judd. Each piece, a testament to the designer’s relentless pursuit of transforming simplicity into an art form, where style transcends temporal boundaries.
Under the soft echoes of Diana Ross’s “I Still Believe in Love,” the audience was swathed in an atmosphere of surreal romanticism. Yet, the clothing revealed an unyielding contrast. Narrow black fishtail gowns, high-waisted jeans paired with minimalistic bra tops, and Rick Owens’ iconic pointy shoulders marked a distinct departure from the enchanting backdrop. The vivid reds amidst the typically monochromatic palette illuminated the runway, unearthing a realm where familiarity and novelty coexist.
The Spring/Summer 2024 line evokes a sensory experience, where the visual spectacle is complemented by tactile ingenuity. The texture of stiff jackets in nylon mesh and denim, adorned with radical Venus flytrap collars, merges the avant-garde with the wearable. This collection, while reminiscing about the past collections, brings a renewal, an evolution where Owens’ artistic essence is reincarnated in forms and silhouettes previously uncharted.
The backdrop of the show, a harmony of fuchsia and acid yellow smoke, combined with showers of fresh rose petals, crafted a visual sonnet that juxtaposed the clothing’s intrinsic rebellion. Rick Owens, whilst bathing in the illumination of positivity, remains true to his intrinsic nature – a symphony of dark and light, complex yet simple, tangible yet ethereal.
As models adorned in fitting jumpsuits reminiscent of hazmat suits made their majestic walk, the audience was reminded of Rick Owens’ gift – to merge the contrast, to evoke emotions complex and profound, and to craft artistry from the simplicity of fabric and silhouette.
©Photo: Rick Owens