Fausto Puglisi, Creative director of Roberto Cavalli, injected a fresh perspective into the brand’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, marked by a surprising departure from its signature wild animal prints. In their place, Puglisi unveiled a newfound fascination with the elegance and variety of Italian marble.
This unexpected material served as the inspiration for stunning prints adorning dresses, skirts, and even jeans, offering a sophisticated edge rarely seen in Cavalli’s traditionally flamboyant collections. Emerald, yellow, and black marble motifs replaced the usual leopard and tiger patterns, exuding a newfound sense of refinement.
The overall collection leaned towards a more modest and covered-up approach, a stark contrast to the brand’s previous emphasis on revealing silhouettes. Long sleeves, flowing dresses, and tailored suits dominated the runway, showcasing a shift towards a more mature and independent woman, as Puglisi himself described: “She’s not just ‘sexy’ – she’s a gentle, independent woman who doesn’t need to depend on a man.”
This newfound direction wasn’t limited to aesthetics. Puglisi drew inspiration from Mariano Fortuny, a renowned textile artist, to introduce intricate plissé pleating into the collection, adding another layer of textural interest. He further emphasized tailoring, featuring sharp suits with wide-leg trousers and even introducing stirrup pants for a touch of retro flair.
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Footwear also underwent a transformation, with sky-high heels taking a backseat to comfortable flats and cowboy boots, both in solid colors and eye-catching marble prints. This shift aligns with the collection’s overall emphasis on comfort and practicality, catering to a diverse and modern audience.
Puglisi’s personal touch and global perspective are evident throughout the collection. His travels and historical knowledge informed his decision to explore marble, resulting in a unique and captivating theme. This move also reflects a strategic shift, as the brand prepares to expand its reach in Europe, Africa, and the Middle East, aiming to connect with a wider and more diverse clientele.
While the collection embraces a new direction, it doesn’t entirely abandon Cavalli’s DNA. Fans of the brand’s signature glamour can still find a selection of skin-baring dresses and miniskirts. However, the collection’s true strength lies in its ability to offer a sophisticated and contemporary interpretation of Cavalli’s legacy, one that celebrates elegance, comfort, and individuality.
Read more: Erdem Fall/Winter 2024 – London Fashion Week
©Photo: Roberto Cavalli
