Amidst the tropical backdrop of the Italian Stock Exchange in Milan, Roberto Cavalli’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection emerges like a vivid daydream. Fausto Puglisi, Cavalli’s leading visionary since 2020, injects a celebratory note into the brand’s iconic designs, melding both the house’s hippie origins and the spirit of empowered modern women.
The setting was awash in a veritable jungle, with greenery creating a sense of sultry mystique, akin to a verdant oasis. It’s no wonder the crowd felt the heat – not just from the decor, but also from the audacious pieces that sashayed down the runway. Puglisi’s craft is unquestionable as he unabashedly transformed the brand’s DNA with Cavalli-esque excessiveness, while still nodding to the past.
Drawing from the archives, feather motifs became the standout design element of the collection. Whether rendered as prints, actual embellishments, or even innovative denim appliques, feathers fluttered across ensembles, reminding spectators of Cavalli’s undying penchant for flamboyance. This intricate detailing wasn’t just a frivolous touch – it spoke volumes about the brand’s embrace of both luxury and nature.
Harking back to the groovy 70s, inspirations from icons like Cher, Bianca Jagger, and Valentina Cortese were evident. Puglisi’s moodboard revived the era’s classics: black reinterpretations of Cher’s silvery criss-cross bandeau and bell bottoms, and Cortese-inspired headscarves elegantly draped over models’ brows. These details transported onlookers back in time, capturing the heady essence of Studio 54 and the era’s liberated ethos.
But while nostalgia had its place, the Roberto Cavalli Spring/Summer 2024 collection was also a resounding salute to the contemporary woman. Marking International Women’s Day, Puglisi envisioned women who dressed for themselves, epitomizing freedom and power. The color palette, awash in hues reminiscent of balmy beach sunsets – from shades of pink to desert tints – echoed this sentiment. Gowns flowed gracefully, with chiffon, caftans, and minis teasingly adorned with streamers and feathery trims. This was juxtaposed by edgier numbers, like leather trousers boasting corset-lacing and bead details. But the finale piece – a curve-embracing sheer black dress – stole the show, encapsulating female prowess in its most potent form.
While reimagining a legacy brand is always a challenge, Puglisi walks the line between honoring Cavalli’s roots and designing for the future. By pairing the brand’s storied past with the modern woman’s spirit, Roberto Cavalli’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection stands as a testament to fashion’s timeless ability to evolve, surprise, and empower.
©Photo: Roberto Cavalli