Roksanda Ilinčić‘s Fall/Winter 2024 collection brought a vibrant breeze to Tate Britain, channeling the sun-drenched spirit of the South of France and the minimalist genius of Le Corbusier. Think bold hues, playful textures, and sculptural silhouettes – a feast for the eyes for women who crave an unconventional edge.
Inspired by the architect’s humble “château,” Cabanon, perched on the Côte d’Azur, Ilinčić translated its rough simplicity and vibrant interiors into a symphony of fashion. Imagine experimental yarns woven into blanket-like dresses, a cape with a dramatic train, and a lineup of prom skirts reminiscent of colorful murals.
Monochrome looks in shades as fresh as market produce – think eggplant, cantaloupe, and citrus green – offered a sophisticated counterpoint. Belted skirt and trouser suits exuded effortless chic, while a ruffled gown glowed with understated glamour.
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Roksanda’s devotees are a vibrant bunch, much like the collection itself. The show’s attendees, including loyal fans and celebrity friends, sported past season’s creations in fuchsia and orange, while Ilinčić herself made a statement in a dark suit paired with eye-catching green shoes.
This collection might be bold, verging on conceptual for some, but for those with a penchant for color, it’s a summery dream come true. Remember Zendaya‘s stunning burgundy Roksanda ensemble at the “Dune” press event? That tailored elegance opened the Fall/Winter 2024 show, setting the stage for a winter filled with playful volumes, abstract drapes, and captivating prints.
In a studio preview, Ilinčić delved deeper, explaining how a family trip to Le Corbusier’s Cabanon sparked the collection. “It’s a small wooden cabin, about 20 meters square,” she said. “What struck me was its modesty, yet everything was perfect. He called it his ‘château,’ filled with extravagance and gentleness. It made me think about who we truly are, our connection with nature, and how little we need to be happy.”
This connection to the Cabanon’s interiors resonated throughout the collection. Melton fabrics, reminiscent of upholstery, featured in Zendaya’s suit, while a crackled leather and cream coat evoked a 1960s kitchen countertop with its lime green treatment. Le Corbusier’s mural-inspired tapestries and jacquards were transformed into spontaneously sculpted dresses.
Gazing down at the azure sea from Cap Martin, Ilinčić drew inspiration from the swirling blue waves and bright sunlight. This translated into the finale’s breathtaking deep blue and bright yellow dresses, adorned with swirling shapes – a fitting tribute to Le Corbusier’s final moments in his beloved sanctuary.
Roksanda’s hands-on approach is evident in every piece, making her collections deeply personal. This authenticity resonates with powerful women across various art forms. Following Beyoncé’s commission of a showstopping gown last year, Zendaya’s embrace of Roksanda is just the beginning. We can’t wait to see who joins the club next!
Read more: Michael Kors Collection Fall/Winter 2024 – New York Fashion Week
©Photo: Roksanda
