Irish designer Simone Rocha unveiled her Fall/Winter 2024 collection during London Fashion Week, marking the final chapter in a captivating three-part series. Titled “The Wake,” the show was a hauntingly beautiful exploration of desire, death, and the enduring allure of mourning attire.
Simone Rocha masterfully intertwined the specters of sex and death in this collection. Delicate corsets embraced the abdomen in parkas and rompers, while sheer jackets revealed glimpses of skin beneath. These alluring details were juxtaposed with faux-fur hip embellishments and metal-beaded “podiums” for the breasts, creating a sense of both vulnerability and power.
Taking inspiration from Queen Victoria’s iconic mourning dress, Rocha presented crushed golden velvet, pale pink brocade, and bow-bedecked chocolate taffeta dresses with a twisted primness. These “prim-iscuous” garments seemed unearthed from a long slumber, their fabrics whispering of bygone eras.
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The show’s setting, London’s historic St Bartholomew the Great church, added another layer of intrigue. This 12th-century venue, steeped in history and incense, became the perfect backdrop for Rocha’s unconventional narratives.
Accessories played a crucial role in storytelling. Plush animals doubled as handbags, symbolizing the comforting presence of companions on life’s journey. Rhinestone-encrusted hoods sprouted from collared knitwear, adding a touch of the bizarre and the theatrical.
Simone Rocha’s second Crocs collaboration made a splash on the runway. Platform Classic Clogs adorned with oversized pearls, faux diamonds, and fur crops offered a playful twist on the classic shoe.
Read more: Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024
©Photo: Simone Rocha
