Under the Brutalist concrete dome of the Espace Niemeyer, the headquarters of the French Communist Party, which it turns out also bears a marked resemblance to the frilly underside of a champignon, the voice of the American mycologist Paul Stamets boomed out, reciting a paean, “In fashion, mushrooms are the future”, to the powers of fungi to open the Stella McCartney’ show.
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Her Spring/Summer 2022 collection explored fungi’s transformative and transcendental qualities while redefining sexiness through feelings of softness and lightness, and bringing a sensual femininity. We’re talking about waistcoats and dresses in hand-drawn mushrooms prints. Nature was also in mind with the launch of the special-edition Frayme Mylo™️ – a new Stella icon and the world’s first bag made with mycelium leather courtesy of Bolt Threads, the California-based company with which she’s been working since 2017, to be presented on a runway. “The mushrooms are grown in labs, so they use no water and barely any electricity. They are pressed down and formulated into a faux leather”, she explained, adding that four years ago the innovation wasn’t advanced enough to produce a bag. “Now we’re at the point where I feel like I can roll it out. Otherwise I wouldn’t have put it on the runway”.
Taking cues from an organic base, Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2022 collection’s palette pulled heavily from nature’s own vibrancy, blending energetic brightness with earthiness.
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